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Line question?
I’ve always been a fluorocarbon guy and use seaguar invisx and liked it. I’ve done straight fluoro and Ive done the braid with about 50 yards of fluoro attached. But around the rocks it tends to get nicked up and I break my line a lot on hook sets (no, I dont retie enough). I use mono for cranking and topwater and only have one pole with braid that I fish topwater on. Seaguar is great line buts its expensive to have it on all my rods. I’ve looked into P-Line Fluoro-Clear, its a hybrid and seems to be tougher and I figure that it would seem better on the rocks. But, you are giving up some visibility and sensitivity.
What are you guys using for line. Especially for Brian, with all of these clients and newbies you take out, I highly doubt that you are putting high quality fluoro on those rigs versus what do you use when you tournament fish on your own rods? You can always message me on here.
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9 Replies
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It’s hard to beat the P-Line FluroClear. That is some good stuff and it is cheap. I have used the BPS Flurocarbon and that stuff has more twists than Chubby Checkers. I have also thrown the Sunline Sniper Fluro and it is good stuff, but pricey. The only thing I am throwing braid on is my Carolina rig for the simple fact that it will stand up to dragging across rocks all day. For topwater, I am using 14 lbs P-Line fluroclear. For cranking, I use 10 lbs Sunline Sniper.
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I have a ton of copolymer line left from a previous sponsor…Fight Line. This is what I have been using for the last couple years. I really like the copolymer line because it is stronger and more sensitive than mono, but not as expensive as fluro. I fly through line so this has been a great compromise.
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For those using the copolymer, how does it rank in sensitivity to a fluoro and have you noticed a difference in the amount of fish or bites.
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I’m with krogers, I use p-line also but i just stick with p-line CXX and CX.
For braid I use Sufix 832 and I only use it on my TN-Rig.Chuck Howell..
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Guess I’m too old school, but I prefer mono over all of the newer stuff. I like the stretch allowing more time to set the hook before the fish becomes aware of the rod. It seems less likely to backlash a rat’s nest, and easier to pick one out if it occurs. And, since I mostly fish at night, the original fluorescent Stren shows up great under the black lights. Have a couple mega-spools of BPS line that have imperfections causing breaks. Will never buy their line again. Their rods are also prone to snapping. Just my experience.
One thing though, I rarely use anything smaller than 17lb test on any of my casting reels. Have lost too many nice fish on lighter lines.
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Line is a funny thing, if you ask ten different people about the same line, you’ll must likely get ten different answers. I’ve used Seaguar on my spinning equipment for a long time, great stuff. The only thing I would say about it is that I feel like it’s got quite a bit of stretch in it, but that could be good or bad depending on what application you’re using it for.
This year I respooled all of my casting rods with Sunline Super Fluorocarbon. You would be hard pressed to find a more inexpensive fluorocarbon but I’ve been really impressed. The line is relatively thin in diameter (i.e. 20# is closer to 17# for other manufacturers) and it appears to have good abrasion resistance and low stretch/sensitivity. I’ve been using 12# for all my reaction baits and 20# for t-rigs, jigs, etc. And as I mentioned previous, it been reliable so far and I’m very pleased.
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I used to fish yo-zuri hybrid for a long time…
it’s a co-polymer. I was using 4-6 on spinning rods a lot back then. It was really finicky and sometimes completely unmanageable. Then I moved to fishing mostly baitcasters. For a while i switched over to trilene 100% fluorocarbon. it’s a decent line, had a bit of stretch to it, but no issues with knot breakage. I used Seaguar for a while, but found that it got nicked up a lot on rocks fishing the cumberland. I also had some line breakage issues due to poorly tied palomar knots. Then I went to Sunline Sniper FC. It’s my absolute go to line now. For crankbaits and other moving presentations, I stick with 10lb tied with a palomar. On Jigs/Worms/Swimjigs/Single Hook applications, I’ve been using 14-16lb and tying a single uni-knot with 6 wraps. Since moving to this setup, I haven’t had any line breakage issues. Even with small nicks on the line, the line is still great. The main thing with fluoro is that you absolutely can’t leave it in super high temp conditions… The deck of the boat or the rod locker is fine, but in a truck or just sitting in a hot garage will cause it to kink, coil and lose it’s strength. I’m with blockel, I’d heartily recommend any/all of sunline’s products. The SX1 braid is great for spinning apps and FX2 braid is great for flipping/frogs/etc…
j. -
Great info! I learned the hard way in a tournament that you can not use a Palomar knot with flurocarbon…
.it will snap when dead swith jigs and worms. -
I don’t really use mono for anything but topwaters now. I like P-line fluroclear and cx premium for co-polymer. I use Vicious flurocarbon for bottom dragging baits and some situations for cranking.
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